Our colleague Flo isn't one for "normal" vacations. His boundless adventurous spirit, his enthusiasm for animal photography, and his commitment to the non-profit organization Tigris Animal Protection have led him to many extraordinary places. Whether diving with orcas in the icy fjords of Norway, searching for jaguars in the Brazilian Pantanal, or expeditions into the last wilderness areas of Africa – a few times a year, Flo grabs his backpack and his Bushbox and travels to places where nature is still pristine and rare animal species can be observed in their natural habitat. In this series, he reports on his experiences, gives practical travel tips, and shows why some adventures are more worthwhile than any package tour.
Gabon – Between Gorillas, Mandrills, and African Adventure
Gabon is one of the most sparsely populated countries in Africa. Around 90 percent of the country's area is covered by tropical rainforest – one of the largest continuous forest areas on the continent. More than a dozen national parks protect this unique nature, which provides a habitat for forest elephants, gorillas, chimpanzees, mandrills, leopards, and countless other animal species. It was this combination of untouched wilderness and comparatively few visitors that made an expedition there so appealing to me.
Entry Chaos, Bureaucratic Jungle, and Long Journeys
However, even the entry process showed that not everything always goes according to plan in Gabon. Despite valid documents, there were lengthy discussions with the authorities. Only with the support of our local partner were we finally able to enter – a foretaste of the patience that is repeatedly needed in Central Africa.
Having arrived in the bustling capital Libreville, our journey continued directly towards Moukalaba-Doudou and Lopé National Parks, where we intended to search for some of the continent's most fascinating animals together with local rangers. For almost nine hours, we bumped along sandy tracks until we finally reached our camp in Tchibanga in southern Gabon. Time for a short break, some rest, and a small Bushbox barbecue with the locals.
On site, our patience was tested again. Despite years of preparation for this trip, time simply ticks differently in Africa. Organizational challenges and misunderstandings regarding permits and payments delayed our start in the national park by several hours. But ultimately, all problems were solved, and the expedition began.
Eye to Eye with Silverbacks
The Moukalaba-Doudou National Park in southwestern Gabon is one of the most biodiverse protected areas in the country. In addition to dense rainforests, savannas, rivers, and lagoons characterize the landscape. These varied habitats make the park an important refuge for numerous endangered animal species.
The first gorilla tracking was very impressive. Western lowland gorillas differ significantly from their more famous relatives, the mountain gorillas. They live predominantly in dense lowland rainforest, are much shyer, and are observed much less frequently. Globally, they are considered critically endangered due to habitat loss, poaching, and diseases. Every encounter with these fascinating great apes is all the more impressive. Since only about 50 to 60 visitors travel here each year, the gorillas were, as expected, shyer than many other habituated gorilla groups. Patience was required. But already on the second tracking day, we were rewarded: Several animals stayed longer in open areas, and we were even able to observe them in their family group – intense moments that will remain in memory for a long time.
During our trip, we also gained exciting insights into the work of the rangers and researchers who have been protecting this unique wildlife for many years. Particularly impressive was the story of the gorilla family, which has been scientifically monitored since 2002 and whose current silverback once fought for leadership of the group himself.
Following the Tracks of the Colorful Mandrills
Our journey then continued towards Lopé National Park. This is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of Gabon's most famous national parks. Its special feature lies in the transition between tropical rainforest and open savannas. This creates ideal habitats for numerous animal species – for example, mandrills, whose population here is one of the largest in the world and which we definitely wanted to see on our expedition.
But first, it meant driving long distances again. Spontaneous hotel changes and repeated encounters with the reality of Central Africa – from bushmeat sellers by the roadside to countless checkpoints – reminded us again how remote our destination truly was.
But our patience paid off again and was rewarded with an absolute highlight – the sight of the impressive, brightly colored mandrills. The world's largest primates after great apes, they live completely wild here and are hardly accustomed to humans. This made observation challenging: dense rainforest, constantly moving animals, and only short windows of visibility. On the second attempt, we finally succeeded in the encounter we had hoped for – several mandrills crossed the path at an open river spot, allowing for impressive observations and some successful photos and videos.
My Conclusion on Gabon as a Travel Destination
Between all the animal observations, there was also time for encounters with the people of Gabon – in local markets, small family restaurants, or in conversations with our guides. It is this mix of pristine nature, exciting animal observations, and the small and large challenges of a real expedition that makes Gabon an exceptional travel destination.
Those looking for comfort will be disappointed in Gabon. However, anyone who wants to experience adventure, untouched rainforests, and rare animal species will find Gabon to be one of Africa's most fascinating nature travel destinations. As much is not perfectly organized, a trip there still feels like a real expedition. It is this originality that makes the country so special – and ensures that every encounter with people and nature remains in memory for a long time.
0 comments